Sunday, January 04, 2004

I talked to some locals in France, and pending any misunderstanding on my part, since the conversation took place in the language of Moliere, I can report about what Southern France's specimen nicknamed the "Luberonisation". While most economists agree on the benefits of trade liberalization, open frontiers and globalization, it is worth noting its impact on a certain class of people.

The Luberon is a lovely region, in the back country of Southern France, with gentle slopes, green woods, picturesque stone villages, engaging bell towers. All in all, a pleasant countryside. Most of its characters stems from the dominant agricultural activity. Most of its charms comes from the climate and the laid back way of life that characterizes this region.

This was not to go unnoticed. Most of the wealthier German, English and Dutch nomenclatura had heard of the beauty of the place, the peace of the hills and the happiness of its peasants. In search of tranquility, of authenticity, or of memories, these people bought out old houses, renovated them, turned them into mansions. They now spend a lot of vacation time in the region, and some of them are planning to retire there.

This had other consequences. Prices of houses sky rocketed, driving out all of the locals who could not afford them. It also drove out the peasants, small "artisans" and all the people who largely contributed to the cultural specificity of the place.

The Luberon now almost completely lacks professional activity as most of the houses belong to people that are either retired or come there for vacation. Its growth propescts are slim since prices are very high and drive out most businesses. The fun part is also gone as it has become a dull place to live in. The smiles on the local faces went away with their bearer.

The Southern coast of France, which I once visited many many years ago was very wild, colorful and noble. As the French Riviera got overbuilt, construction companies extended their reach to the entire coastline. I came back to hotels, resorts, and loads loads loads of villas, not always well designed, not always lost in vegetation. In many cases, they cut access to the sea, although all beaches are meant to be accessible and public, as the first 6m beyond the sea is what is called "Le Chemin Des Douaniers", the path of the custom officers. Tourism and residence building has become a major industry in the region, driving out locals from Aix en Provence and Montpellier. The TGV allows people to work in Lyon and even Paris and live in the South of France. A country with two development speeds? A nature in trouble? A great opportunity for highly paid Parisian bankers? Good news for the French tourism industry?

Sad reality or necessity of our time? I welcome your comments.

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