Monday, January 05, 2004

Christmas in France. I was asked to post a typical Christmas menu. I was told that there was no such thing as each region of France will have a culinary specificity for the occasion. In fact, the reason why France has no national dish is because each region has a whole different set of recipes and picking one among all would be in conflict with one of the three governing principle of the Republic: Equality.

Nimes' dish was the Brandade de Morue, in Alsace, the "Saur kraut" French style is a typical dish, in Marseille, the Bouillabaisse, in Toulouse, the Cassoulet, in Brittany, the crepes, in Montelimar, the nougat, in the Bethmale Valley in Ariege, you can try a Croustade, in Savoie: tartiflette, cheese fondue or raclette, in Burgundy, meat fondue, in Grenoble, a Gratin Dauphinois, in the Gers, foie gras...Even wines, spirits and cheeses are specific to regions. Roquefort comes from the town of Roquefort, Champagne from the champagne region, Cognac from the town of cognac, Munster from the town of Munster, etc...etc...

However, it looks like there is some common factors to a Provencal Christmas meal. I can certainly talk about what I was served on that day.

The aperitif would be served with some pastis, muscat or port wine. At times, a kir.
There would be toasts with tapenade (salty olive paste); others with butter and anchovies, some olives with herbs and cheese cubes. Grilled sardines in the fireplace could complete the picture.

The starter would be served with a white wine from the North: Pouilly Fouisse. In our case, it consisted of a humongous tray of seafood, fished earlier during the day. Sea urchins, oysters, "violets" - whatever that is, prawns, and other various shells. Served with lemon and buttered bread.

We then continued onto the Foie Gras distribution, with another type of bread and no butter and a glass of Sauternes.

Courageously moving onto the main course: lamb with rissolees chestnuts, warm apple compote and green beans with herbs. Wine is now a red northen wine, from Burgundy. A Pommard for instance or a Gigondas.

The Cheese tray is served with lettuce and contains a least a dozen of different types of cheeses. Wine is a red Bordeaux, a Saint Julien.

I heard about the Buche Glacee as a typical mix between cake and ice cream for Christmas but in Provence, there were 13 desserts.
Dried fruits (figs, dates, prunes), fresh fruits: Christmas white grapes, two types of nougat (white and black with caramel), oranges, almonds, hazel nuts...
Among these 13 desserts was the typical Provencal cake, sold only on Christmas day: The Pompe. Ours had a slight taste of anisede.
Wine is champagne.

Quite a feast. Bon Appetit.

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